Tasting And Appreciating Wines
DEGUSTATION
(The fancy French way of saying tasting)
ARE YOU NERVOUS YET?
Wine tasting – two magical words indeed! Perhaps (at least for this writer) the two nicest adjoining words in the English language. For some, it’s an intimidating concept. For others, an invitation for hedonistic fun and consumption of things oenological. And then for some of us it’s a profession, a way of life, a job, sometimes even a task, but one that we relish and undertake with varying levels of joy and appreciation, amazement, and profound respect.
Wine tasting need not be daunting or intimidating. In my years of wine education, I have explained that no one has a better palate than anyone else. Yes, some people have more educated palates than others, but never let anyone dictate to you what you should or shouldn’t like. And don’t let the points system dictate to you what is good or great. Yes, certain wines might stand out above some others because of finesse and style, but for me it’s the same as saying a certain restaurant is the best in the world. If it’s Swedish cuisine for instance, then where does that leave those great French, Italian, Japanese chefs who manifest true magic in their kitchens?
There are SO many choices to be made, and it’s the same with wine – just enjoy what you like, but always be willing to expand your wine horizons and experiment within your budget. A $7,000 bottle of Burgundy might well be wasted on you, if what you really enjoy is a bolder Sangiovese or a Garnacha. That said, if someone is willing to buy it for you, then by all means, have a sip and see what makes it worth that amount. But first of all, with a wine of this nature, please ensure that you know how to actually taste it so that the full appreciation can be enjoyed.
MECHANICS
There are plenty of people who will simply smell a wine, and say: ahh that’s nice! and then take a mouthful, swallow and make a comment about good body and lovely fruit. There’s truly nothing wrong with this, though here’s a better way for the full experience: taste and savor like a pro!
It's really not complicated, but it takes a little practice. So; grab a glass and some wine, mes enfants. I’ll wait until you get back…….
Now, there is definitely some truth to specific wine glasses crafted for the matching wine, but let’s not get tootechnical today. Any decent wine glass will do for today’s tasting. But if you DO have a Burgundy bowl for the Pinot, or a Bordeaux glass for the Cabernet/Merlot then we are off to a good start!
Pour about 2-3 ounces into your glass. You can have a full glass later… Now look at the color by tilting the glass onto its side perhaps against a piece of white paper. Is the wine clear and bright? Hopefully so. Sometimes it might be a tad hazy, which could mean it’s unfiltered or perhaps an older wine with some sediment. The former means that the winemaker specifically wanted to bypass the filtration process, to give the wine a bit more body and texture, and some argue that it also helps keep the wine more “balanced.” Generally, the colors will give you an idea of the grape varietal. Bright cherry color could indicate a Pinot Noir. A richer gold could be an oak-aged Chardonnay. Pale straw might well be a Sauvignon Blanc. Okay let’s move on…
DEEP BREATH
If you just hold the glass steady and lift it to your nose and inhale through your nostrils, what do you get? Not much, except perhaps the smell of wine/alcohol. Now, holding the stem, or base, with your fingertips (cupping the bowl of the glass warms up the wine too much), slowly swirl the wine around the glass. Now hold the glass to your nose and really inhale – stick your nose right in there! What do you smell? If it smells off, or just funky, then the wine is most likely bad. However, if it’s old, then work past that and ask a professional if it’s meant to be that way.
Think of what you recall, scent-wise. Your grandmother’s cooking, visiting the farmer’s market, a walk in the woods, visiting an antique store, driving through a big city. Try to think of all the aromas you can. The very first one? Whatever it is, put it to the side. Don’t dwell on that, just think of the next aroma you can summon from your olfactory memory bank. Put that aside with the first. These first few elements will be the most predominant – fruits and spices. Free-associate – don’t be shy.
This first inhalation will also tell you perhaps what the varietal or style is, if you didn’t get it from the color. Is it Cabernet? Pinot? Alicante? Zinfandel? Albarino?
The second layer of aromas will be a bit more complex – subtle layers of perhaps wood/oak, tannins and floral notes. This should give you an idea of the age of the wine, whether or not it was barrel-aged, and even provenance. Again, wrack your brain for things you’ve smelled before.
The tertiary or final aspect will be the lingering subtle elements such as rose petals, coffee, vanilla. Hopefully these last elements will bring everything together. As you learn to leave all the various aromas behind and consider others, then you will build up what I call the Aroma Palette. You can paint an aromatic picture with just this and apply it as you continue forward.
WHAT A BODY!
Wine should always be in balance. There’s absolutely no need to take you, the consumer, through a roller-coaster of high alcohol, massive fruit, overwhelming oak and mouth-puckering tannins. However, because of competition in certain regions, there are those wineries that format their wines to their client bases, who are often misled to believe that these behemoths are ne plus ultra.
Anyway, rant over… take a sip. What do you get? Just like in the nose, most likely just the taste of wine and alcohol. Maybe some fruit. Now here’s where it gets a bit tricky.
Purse your lips as if making a kissy-face. Leave a small gap so that you can whistle in or out. Practice whistling inwards very gently. Not big gasps like a stranded fish. Put a small amount of wine in your mouth, tilt your head down slightly and inhale with a small breath of air. Don’t swallow the wine yet. Swish it around your mouth, wash your tongue and gums. Press the wine against the roof of your mouth, and now you can swallow. See? Look at ALL that lovely fruit. Acid, rich flavors, fruit, tannins, alcohol.
Again, consider the first taste that comes to mind. Blackberry tart. Coffee. Apple. Persimmon. Oysters. Orange zest. Almonds. Marzipan. You name it – it’s up to you to recall things you’ve eaten and what you can remember, taste-wise. Keep putting the initial elements to the side and build up your taste palette. It’s an artist’s board – you can create virtually anything you wish to.
LE FIN
The finish in a wine is so very critical. Overall, how did you like the wine? Good nose? Lovely mouthfeel? All good things for sure, and are you happy? Hopefully. You should be left with a lingering feeling of love. Is there joy on your tongue? No bitterness or sadness? This is what makes a good wine, no matter the price or intimidation level – it’s all about balance and finish. That essence of what most winemakers strive for – their own expression of what righteous juice should be.
